Anna Marie Harrington

The Loaf of Bread: A Tale of Hunger, Poverty, and Injustice

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I was hailing a boda boda (motorcycle taxi) when I heard a voice behind me ask if I would buy him some bread.

When I turned around I saw a barefooted boy about 12 years old. His short, black, curly hair was rusty-red from the dust of the iron rich african soil. His torn and faded blazer covered a stained and tattered t-shirt. His dirty oversized trousers cinched tight with a frayed nylon rope. His eyes were downcast, and his body language conveyed both shyness and hunger.

When I looked at this young boy, I was reminded of a story about an orphaned boy that was chased down and beaten to death by a mob, not far from where we stood for stealing a piece of bread. He was only nine years old. 

The police rarely investigate crimes against homeless children, as they are seen as criminals and thieves by the police and the community rather than vulnerable individuals in need of protection and support.

A few years ago, the local police rounded up the street kids, loaded them into a lorry, then drove to the jungle and dumped them. One boy hid to avoid being taken to jungle, but later, when he was discovered by the police, he was taken to the stadium and shot dead. He was 14 years old.

I led the boy to a nearby market, where the smell of spices and produce mingled in the air. When we entered the store, I soon understood his hesitation, as all eyes were on him. I noticed the stares of the other shoppers, who seemed to regard him as a nuisance or a threat as he perused the shelf of bread. I asked him if he wanted anything else, but he said no. He quickly chose a loaf, then carried it to the cash register. He placed the bread on the counter, mumbled something to the store clerk, then immediately left the market. 

After I paid the clerk, he bagged the bread, but instead of handing it to me, he set it to the side. He explained the boy would return later for the bread because if he were to take it with him, the older boys would steal it from him.  

I left the market and found the boy waiting outside. He thanked me, then hailed me a boda boda. 

As I thought about the boy's plight, I remembered the staggering statistics: 2.7 million orphans in Uganda, 10,000 children living on the streets. Poverty and HIV/AIDS were the main culprits. But statistics only tell part of the story. The reality was much darker: children being beaten to death for stealing bread, police rounding up street kids and dumping them in the jungle, rampant abuse and exploitation.

As I rode away on my boda boda, I couldn't help but wonder where the boy would sleep that night. The white loaf of bread he had chosen would do little to nourish his malnourished body, but it was better than nothing. The sun was setting, and the temperature was dropping. I felt grateful for the roof over my head and the food in my belly, but I also felt ashamed of the privilege that separated me from the boy and so many others like him.

Walking in Agnes' Shoes: A Glimpse into the Daily Life of a Ugandan Woman

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I was visiting the Kitojo Community Vocational Institute in Kabale, Uganda, when I noticed Agnes ambling up the steep driveway carrying three empty jerrycans. I ran after her and asked if I could accompany her. She nodded her head and handed me a jerrycan. The school is building additional classrooms, and Agnes is responsible for collecting the water needed to mix the concrete.

We followed a well-trodden, dusty road into the village. The water tap is located in the center of the village, behind a small mud hut.

Five years ago, the government connected the village to the national water supply. The villagers pay 200 Ugandan shillings, (about $.50) for each jerrycan of water. Before the water tap was installed, the villagers had to walk several miles, high into the mountains, to fetch water, but now they are within a few minutes' walk of clean drinking water.

When we arrived at the source, we placed the containers on the ground. Agnes removed the lids from each of the containers and then placed one jerrycan at a time beneath the spout until each of them was full. With a combined weight of 120 pounds, her task of collecting water is not easy. I picked up one of the jerrycans by the handle and followed Agnes back to the school. The weight was cumbersome, and with each step, the container seemed to become heavier.

As I passed through the village, I heard the children and adults chuckle as I battled with the container. Several children yelled out, "Mzungu!, Mzungu!" (Mzungu is a term used to refer to someone with "white skin" or a foreigner.) I imagine it was amusing to the villagers to watch the mzungu struggle to carry one jerrycan.

Agnes had almost reached the school when she looked back and noticed my slow progress. She set her two jerrycans down on the road, and walked back to me. As she approached, she removed a wrap from around her waist, coiled the fabric, and placed it on my head. She then lifted the 40-pound jerrycan and placed it on my head. 

By this point, I had attracted a crowd, and the villagers watched as I took that first unsteady step. I clutched the bright yellow container with a death grip. With the jerrycan balanced precariously on my head, with each step the water sloshed within the container, making it increasingly difficult to balance. "One hand, one hand!" one woman shouted as I plodded forward. I decided if I was going to fetch water, I would carry the water like a pro. I carefully released my grip from the handle and slowly lowered one arm. I took a step forward, but suddenly, the shifting water within the container caused me to lose my balance. I quickly returned my hand to steady the jerrycan, and this appeared to have humored the villagers.

Embarrassed, but determined, I trudged down the uneven, rock-strewn dirt road. Lactic acid built up in my shoulders, causing them to burn. I could feel the weight of the water compressing my spine. Nearing the school, my legs began to tremble, and I feared they would falter beneath the weight of the water. Somehow, I managed to reach the bottom of the hill, and Agnes helped lower the jerrycan to the ground.

I had only walked a short distance, but I was exhausted. Fetching water is not an easy task. Tired, I walked to a chair beneath a nearby tree to rest.
Just as I was leaning back to close my eyes, there was a tap on my shoulder. When I opened my eyes, I saw Agnes standing before me. She handed me a jerrycan and said, "Let’s go!"

At the end of the day, I calculated that Agnes was walking close to 20 miles every day while carrying a combined weight of over twelve hundred pounds, or a little over half a ton of water every day for work, it became clear to me the immense toil and dedication needed to secure something as basic as water—a stark reminder of the privilege many of us enjoy, often taking it for granted.

Don’t you ever get lonely?

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As I answer the question about loneliness on the road, a twinge of emotion grips my chest. It's true—there are times when I feel lonely out on the road. But it's a bittersweet feeling, one that I've learned to accept and even cherish.

Walking alone on this journey for clean water is not without its challenges. But being alone has also offered opportunities to grow as a human being. The road has been my teacher, offering lessons in perseverance, resilience, and self-discovery. Through every step, I've learned to confront my fears and push beyond my limits. Even in the face of daunting challenges, I've been able to find the strength to persevere. I'm discovering that I'm much stronger than I ever thought I could be.

I often think about the ripples of my actions and how they might impact others. Even if I never know for sure whether my actions have made a difference, I can take comfort in the fact that I did everything in my power to try.

Despite the peace and tranquility of solitude, human connection is still something we all crave deep down. But even in those moments of loneliness, I know that I'm experiencing the world in a way that few others ever will. Walking allows me to take in every sight, smell, and sound of my environment. I'm able to fully immerse myself in the world around me and appreciate every detail and nuance that makes it so special.

There's something about being alone on the open road that brings a sense of clarity and peace to my mind. Walking has become my meditation, my way of connecting with something larger than myself. It's a reminder that we're all just tiny specks in this vast universe, yet still capable of experiencing its beauty and wonder.

So yes, there are times when I feel lonely out here. But those moments are outweighed by the profound sense of connection and wonder that I experience every day on the road. And in the end, I know that I wouldn't want it any other way.

A Walk in the Woods

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As I walked through the pine and cork trees, I noticed a set of animal prints on the trail ahead. My curiosity got the best of me, and I followed them until they abruptly ended at a puddle of water, left behind from a recent rainfall. I paused, studying the prints and contemplating the creatures that left them behind. But as I stepped closer to the puddle, I was reminded of the stark reality facing millions of women and girls in Sub-Saharan Africa.

I kneeled beside the murky water, watching an insect dance across its surface. In that moment, I couldn't help but think of the women and children who must travel several miles every day to collect similar water for their families. Water that is contaminated with diseases such as cholera, typhoid, and dysentery. Water that can be deadly to those who drink it.

The thought of it was overwhelming. How could so many people lack access to safe drinking water in this day and age? How could the United Nations recognize water and sanitation as a human right in 2010, yet millions still suffer from the lack of access to clean water?

As I stood there, gazing at the puddle, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the clean water that flows from my tap back home. The privilege of safe water was something that I had always taken for granted, but now I saw it as a luxury that millions of people could only dream of.

The statistics were staggering. 315,000 children in Africa die each year from diseases caused by unsafe water. Millions more suffer from illness and disease, all because they lack access to clean water. It was a harsh reminder of the disparities that exist in our world, and the work that still needs to be done to ensure that everyone has access to the basic necessities of life.

World Toilet Day

Some awesome folks in Killyleagh, Northern Ireland squatting to raise awareness of the more than one billion people who face the indignity of open defecation.

A group of awesome individuals in Killyleagh, Northern Ireland, squatting to raise awareness about the dire issue of open defecation, which affects over one billion people worldwide. We would like to express our gratitude to Gawn and his family for generously allowing us to use their home as a backdrop for our photo campaign.

We call it by many names: the loo, the porcelain throne, the john, the crapper, and the turd tube. The toilet doesn’t get the respect it deserves. We take it for granted, yet according to Water.org, "No other invention has saved more lives than a toilet."

The United Nations observes November 19th as "World Toilet Day" to highlight the 2.5 billion people in the world that don’t have access to a toilet.

Poo is a crappy subject, and while everyone does it, no one wants to talk about it. "This lack of access is a ‘silent crisis’ that has claimed more casualties through illness than any conflict." (United Nations, 2015)

Sanitation is a human right.

Yet, 893 million people practice open defecation, which is emptying the bowels outside in fields, forests, bushes, and bodies of water rather than into a toilet.

The practice poses serious risks to human health and the environment.

It contaminates water sources and spreads diseases, including cholera, typhoid, hepatitis, and diarrhea.

Every 20 seconds, a child dies from diseases caused by fecal contamination.

And not having a toilet at home is dangerous for women since each time a woman uses the outdoors to relieve herself, she is vulnerable to physical or sexual assault.

Providing everyone with access to a toilet saves lives, promotes dignity, and protects the environment. Let's work together to make access to toilets a reality for all.

I will end with this slogan from the World Toilet Organization:

I give a shit, do you?

Lessons in Empathy: How Seeing the World Changed Me

When I was in elementary school, my world was small. I only knew my neighborhood and the kids I went to school with. But one day, a guest speaker came to our class and spoke about the famine in Ethiopia. She showed us pictures of children with spindly limbs and bloated bellies. It was the first time I realized that there were people in the world who didn't have access to basic necessities like food and water.

As I grew up, I never forgot that moment of realization. And years later, when I visited Nicaragua, those emotions came flooding back. I saw women collecting water from a nearby river, spending hours every day just to provide their families with this basic necessity. It was a stark reminder that there are still places in the world where people don't have access to clean water.

It's easy to forget about the struggles that others face when we live in a comfortable bubble. But we need to remember that there are people all over the world who are fighting to survive every day. We should strive to help them in any way we can, whether it's through charitable donations or simply spreading awareness. We all have the power to make a difference in the world.

Inspiration, Connection, and Kindness.

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In the ancient town of Cashel, my writing muse finally made an appearance. As I gazed upon the majestic castle, the ruined abbey, and the lush, green hills, I felt the words come to me effortlessly. My memoir had been a slow and arduous journey, but in this idyllic setting, the words flowed like a river. For several days, I hunkered down in my tent, scribbling away until my hunger, thirst, and the call of the open road forced me to pack up and leave. But my travels through Ireland had more surprises in store for me. In the quaint village of Ballylooby, I stumbled upon the charming Kilcoran Lodge Hotel. There, I met Christine, an Irish-American woman from New York who had come to Ireland to visit her family and care for their ancestral home. We hit it off instantly, and our lively conversation lasted long past midnight. After several days of relative solitude, I savored every moment of our encounter.

As I continued my journey towards Mitchelstown the next morning, I felt a sense of anticipation building inside me. Little did I know that my new friend Bernie had contacted the local radio station, Tipp FM, about my travels. As I entered the village, I was greeted by the friendly producer, Ben Sweeney, who walked with me for a mile while pulling my cart. The two of us chatted about my adventures, and I felt my spirits lift with each step. Soon, we were joined by two garda officers, John and Morris, who added to the jovial atmosphere. We took a few photos and wrapped up the interview, but the warmth and camaraderie stayed with me long after we parted ways.

These moments of inspiration, connection, and kindness make my journey through Ireland a truly unforgettable experience.

Reflections on the Road

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As I arrived in Cashel, the City of Kings, I couldn't help but reflect on the road that led me here. The miles I've traveled have become easier with each passing day, but my journey has been more than just a physical one.

It has challenged me to look within myself and confront my fears and weaknesses. The road has molded and shaped me to survive, and at times, I feel like a stranger to myself. But despite the personal sacrifices I've made, I know in my heart that I'm exactly where I belong.

As I look back on my journey, I'm filled with gratitude for the people I've met, the lessons I've learned, and the beauty of the world that surrounds me.

The Kindness of Strangers

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I love Irish hospitality. I find the Irish to be welcoming and supportive of my cause. Many people will stop their cars to chat or honk their horns in support.

When I arrived in Athy, I met two women, a mother and her daughter. They noticed me walking down to the river for a photo and stopped me. After a bit of conversation, they invited me to their home for dinner that evening. Over a nice meal of trout, beets, vegetables, potatoes, and the best homemade apple tart I have ever tasted, I learned Kate co-produced a documentary named Naledi, which had been nominated for Outstanding Nature Documentary at The News and Documentary Emmy Awards. The film is on Netflix, so if you get a chance, check it out.

The next day, on my way to The Swan, I found the hills to be a challenge, especially an area known as Wolfhill. I was ready to ditch my heavy trolley, Magellan, as I made my way up the aptly named hill. Moments later, I was rewarded for my efforts, when a woman named Carmel and her mother, Anne, invited me into their home for tea and a sandwich. Carmel’s mother had seen me on the road earlier that day. It was a welcome break. I didn’t stay long, as it was getting late and I needed to find a place to pitch my tent for the night. Someone had suggested I inquire about a room at the pub in town, which I did. When I walked in, George, the owner, was sitting at the bar reading a newspaper. I asked him if he had lodging, but he was hesitant because he no longer operates as an inn. However, a moment later, he reached behind the bar, grabbed a set of keys, and led me to a room near the back of the pub. He brought me fresh towels and told me to let him know if I needed anything else. That evening I dined at the restaurant and then returned to my room for a good night's sleep.

The following day, when I tried to pay George for the room, he refused. After breakfast and a few photos, I said goodbye and thanked him for his generosity. I departed and made my way to Durrow via Abbeyleix.

After a long and rewarding journey through the Irish countryside, I arrived at my accommodation in Durrow. The warm welcome and thoughtful gestures of the hosts, including a soothing foot soak, were a perfect ending to a day filled with breathtaking scenery and unforgettable encounters with the welcoming people of Ireland.

On the Road Again

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I have returned to Ireland to resume my trek. On Tuesday, I was welcomed back to Kilcullen by a group of enthusiastic students from Cross and Passion College, who had also greeted me during my initial visit last May. Before beginning my journey anew, I had a productive meeting with Deputy Martin Heydon, during which I was pleased to learn that my meeting with Minister Simon Coveney would be scheduled sooner than expected.

I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my friends from Newbridge: Noel, Michael, Susan, and John, who tirelessly worked towards drawing attention to my mission. Their unwavering support has been invaluable, and I will miss them as I continue my journey towards Cork.

As I hit the road again, I feel a sense of joy and contentment. The road ahead may be long and winding, but I'm thrilled to be back on the road, taking the next step in achieving my goals.

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Oh, water, clear and cool, A precious gem, our greatest jewel, Flows freely every day, But we take it for granted in every way.

Only when the well runs dry, Do we see the truth with our own eye, Without this liquid gold, Our fate would be bleak and cold.

We must not wait to appreciate, The value of this life-giving resource, Cherish each drop, every splash, And ensure our water supply doesn't crash.

Let's take action to preserve and conserve, This gift of life that we deserve, For water is a treasure to hold, And without it, our story will remain untold.